As could be expected from your former child star, justin bieber clothes has experienced many a fashion transformation over time. He’s done quiffed hair plus a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented with a floppy fringe plus a suit. But while some of his tries to toughen up are already met with derision, the most up-to-date part in the Biebvolution is actually bang on the fashion money. There have been ripped jeans. There have been oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts using the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, we have seen plenty of layering – and many raw edges.
Not everybody gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s response to his Marques’Almeida moment in the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) nevertheless the latest incarnation of Bieber ties into a mood that is sweeping through menswear – and could be arriving within your wardrobe soon.
In short: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy is out. Deliberately undone and messy is within. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge using a tracksuit top and a pierced ear thrown set for good measure. You can dub it a hot mess for men, but the one thing you would never call it is hipster – manicured beards ought to be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber hoodie wore on the teen awards, is integral towards the rise in demand for denim as well as jeans which are hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the type of look which makes parents eyeroll and say: “You given money for that? Do want me to put proper hems on those?”, that has legs. Elsewhere about the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent herringbone trousers which had been roughly cut off on the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a kind of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing taking place; in close proximity, the holes during these knits are layered over a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a sort of anti-luxury luxury – can there be in the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy certainly is the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is an excellent reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, one of the more in-demand photographers in vogue, these pictures use a typical masculine rawness. Inside a short video to accompany this shoot, you can also see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories for that latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile could this be Man?, whilst the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The second sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a couple of days amount of facial hair.
Haute scruff had also been around one of the more talked-about moments of the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, that was kept in a Chinese restaurant variously known as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes that had been all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like that they had just rolled out of bed. The majority of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, like the parcel delivery service); even the show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a turn on the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots as well as a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence in vogue is simply set to go on: after the show, one of Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, ended up being to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy can be another of your buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label has been backed up by Comme des Garçons. His clothes think that a nerdy carry out Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, but not.
In fact, if all else fails, the key to this look is a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) for men. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for ladies (see British Vogue’s December issue, by which several tracktops are featured in the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all a bit Damon Albarn circa 1996. Why does this humble zip-up summarize this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, as it ticks the 1990s box – as well as the dexqpkyy16 is becoming the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the alternative of all justin bieber clothing which has been the headline news in menswear over the past few years. And finally, it’s very easy to chuck on, doesn’t seem like you’ve made an endeavor but suggests you are aware what’s happening. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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