SCX10 II – Discover the Online Websites That Will Sell the Most Reasonably Priced SCX10 II.

The world of RC has numerous different facets; there’s really something for all. One of the areas I’ve set my sights on mastering is the drift segment. It basically goes against everything I’ve learned when it comes to driving sliding is preferable to grip, more power does not necessarily mean a faster vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic is better than rubber. Then when 3Racing sent over their SCX10 II, I had to scoop one approximately see what each of the hoopla was using this type of drifter.


WHO Will Make It: 3Racing

WHO IT’S FOR: Any level of drift enthusiast


Exactly How Much: $115.00



• AWD for easy learning ?

• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?

• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?

• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?

• Battery positioning while watching motor or in the rear diffuser ?

• Aluminum motor mount ?

• Threaded shocks ?Plenty of tuning adjustment ?

• Extremely affordable pric


• Front drive belt slips off the roller bearing


This drifter has a great deal opting for it; well manufactured, lots of pretty aluminum and rolls in in a very inexpensive price. Handling is good too when you get used to the kit setup, and it also accepts a really wide range of body styles. There’s also a huge amount of tunability for individuals who prefer to tinker, so this car should grow along as your skills do.


The D4’s chassis is really a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It provides cutouts at the base for your front and back diffs to peek through and also a bazillion countersunk holes. Many of these can be used for mounting stuff like the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but there are actually a number of left empty. They may be utilized to control chassis flex, yet not with all the stock top deck; an optional you must be purchased. The design is a lot like a typical touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and ultimately the back bulkhead/ suspension. Things are readily available and replaceable with only a few turns of some screws.

? Other than a few interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is much like a touring car’s. A single A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are used, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to increase them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The back suspension uses vertical ball studs to take care of camber and roll while the front uses an intriguing, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This method allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on lower and upper pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and enables some extreme camber settings.

? One thing that’s pretty amazing with drift cars will be the serious quantity of steering throw they have got. Beginning from the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart so when near to the edges in the chassis as you possibly can. This results in a massive 65° angle, enough to control the D4 in even deepest of slides. Since drifters spend the majority of their time sideways, I needed an effective servo to take care of the constant countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.

Without needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to take care of any steering angle changes I want it a moment’s notice.

? The D4 uses a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A tremendous, 92T 48P spur is connected to the central gear shaft, where front and back belts meet. Pulleys keep the front belt high on top of the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the energy for the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to enable utilizing a assortment of different wheel and tire combos.

? To provide the D4 a bit of beauty, I opted for 3racing Sakura D4 body from ABC Hobby. This is a beautiful replica with this car and included a slick pair of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure the way to paint it, having said that i do remember a method I used quite some time back that got a bit of attention. So, I gave the RX-3 an attempt of pearl white about the underside, but painted the fenders black externally. After everything was dry, I shot the surface with a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I really like the last result … and it also was easy. That’s good because I’m a really impatient painter!

Around The TRACK

For this test, I needed the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter on the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I was heading there to perform a picture shoot for one more vehicle and thought, heck, why not bring it along and obtain some sideways action?


The steering in the D4 is fairly amazing. Because I mentioned earlier, the throw is a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference through the parts. Even CVD’s can turn that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Even though it does look a little bit funny with all the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does a fantastic job of keeping the slide controlled and transferring the proper direction. This can be, to some extent, thanks to the awesome handling of your D4, but the speedy Futaba servo.


Drifting is not really about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I am aware that sounds odd, but once you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your respective drifter, it is possible to control the angle of attack and the sideways motion through any corner. I stumbled upon Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to complete simply that make controlled, smooth throttle alterations in modify the angle of the D4 where and when I needed. Sliding inside a little shallow? Increase throttle to obtain the tail end to whip out. Beginning to over cook the corner? Ease up somewhat and also the D4 would get back in line. It’s all a point of ? nesse, and also the Novak system is made for just that. I did really need to be just a little creative using the install of the system as a result of limited space in the chassis, but overall it worked out great.


After driving hooked up touring cars for a while, it can do require a little getting used to knowing that an automobile losing grip and sliding is the proper way around the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control as soon as you have it, it’s beautiful. Getting a car and pitching it sideways by way of a sweeper, in the mean time keeping the nose pointed in at under two or three inches through the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled out of control thing, as well as the D4 does it wonderfully. The kit setup is great, but if you believe just like you need more of something anything there’s lots of what you should adjust. I just enjoyed the auto together with the kit setup and it was only a point of battery power pack or two before I found myself swinging the back throughout the hairpins, round the carousel and backwards and forwards from the chicane. I never had the opportunity to strap battery on the diffuser, but that’s something I’m getting excited about.


There’s very little you can do to damage a drift car they’re not really going all of that fast. I have done, however, provide an trouble with the top belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top deck. Throughout the initial run, it suddenly felt like the D4 acquired a bit drag brake. I kept along with it, looking to overcome the issue with driving, but soon were required to RPM Traxxas slash parts it straight into actually take a look. Through the build, the belt slips into a plastic ‘tunnel’ that may be backed up by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted items like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square about the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, as soon as the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide off of the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it will come in contact with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura an extended screw with several 1mm shims to space the bearing out a little bit more. Problem solved.